Kashghar

The bus brought us to Kashghar in the morning. We checked in about bus tickets to Kyrgyzstan, then jumped on a little motorcycle with an attached wagon to get to the Chini Bagh hotel. From there Andy and Omar got some tour info about exploring the mountainous areas on the way to the Pakistan border. With that in mind for the next few days, we head out to see the old part of town. As we walked down the street, a drunken man invited us to his brother's birthday. He insisted that we join him as he was an english teacher. So I invited him to come pray with us at the Eid Ka Mosque which we were headed to. That got rid of him quick.We walked down some lanes to the old city and followed them to a row of shops with people making wood items, musical instruments and metal pots. I walked into a shop with antiques and the shopkeeper spoke to me in Urdu and English. His father had been to many countries and much of the antiques in his shop were from Pakistan. He suggested I trim my mustache, in fact he really wanted me to trim it, as he showed me how well manicured his was. He was a very friendly person, working all day in the shop, but still full of good cheer. We walked across into the best looking instrument shop and met the owner, Mohammad Abu Bakri, whose family had been making instruments for 4 or 5 generations. He had all kinds of Uighar instruments, including huge bass variations we had never seen. Andy had planned to purchase some and Omar was interested in a good drum. We sat down and started jamming with Mohammad who was very warm and happy to explain the different instruments to us, without any expactations. We started playing different songs and found that old and new Pakistani and Indian film songs were popular amongst the Uighars. He shared some songs with us and we shared a bunch with him, both playing each other's music as a crowd streamed into the shop and outside the glass window. After a while, I walked down the street as Andy and Omar kept jamming.I passed the metal workers, ate some Uighar ice cream, as we had in Urumqi, then happened upon a little barbershop. It had two barber chairs, and was run by two boys who were about fifteen at most with a number of small assistants. I sat down and little eyes all over started watching me. I waited my turn then showed an old photo and with gestures decribed I wanted a mustache trim etc. I figured I'd follow my new friend's advice. I checked to make sure that they use fresh blades etc and then let the kid do whatever he wanted. It was pretty funny, with the little assistant kids watching and helping, and getting my hair washed more thoroughly than I ever thought possible. The young barber himself was very meticulous and after a long time and lots of care, we were done. The guys were still at the shop, quite shocked to see me.We did some more music, as Andy and Omar tested out different instruments. I saw some amazing Muqaam paintings, of traditional music in a catalogue of Uighar instruments. There was a tiny little boy who kept hanging around to see us. He'd ask me something every now and then, I think asking for some money, but mostly just stood and watched. I got him to clap during one song at another shop, but he would not take the food I bought for him. I suppose the sweet little kid was probably begging for someone. We also stopped by the shop of Mohammad's younger cousin and jammed with the cousin and another boy for a few songs before they closed shop.We walked over to a beautifully decorated restaurant, where Andy amused some bald kids with a piano. They even turned off the restaurant music as he played, until some stuffed shirt made him stop playing. We ate some food, then walked back and went to see the Eid Ka Mosque which was the largest mosque in Kashghar. There was a whole open area around it with shops. We walked back to the hotel and got some sleep.