Border Crossing

Woke up in the train. The door out of our compartment was stuck. I remember half asleep watching Omar struggle with it a bit before giving up and going back to bed. I tried with similar results. I looked through the slit in the side of the door and saw some Mongolian men hanging out in the hall, looking out the window. I knocked on the door and pulled at the lock a bit and they kindly came over and yanked it open after a brief struggle. I thanked them, my eyes barely opening and we both nodded in agreement at the crappy lock we agreed not to lock again. I walked across about 8 cars to find an open bathroom to wash up. I came back and rested. We all spent time in the hall, watching the barren landscape roll past, talking to other passengers like Jaigal. I played some chess on a Mongolian chess set with Omar before we got the word that we would arrive in Zamanud momentarily. We quickly grabbed all our stuff and rushed to the nearest exit where there was already a line of people. As soon as the doors of the train car opened we made a mad dash out, across towards the buses. A guy with a jeep offered to take us across the border (this is normal practice) for 80 RMB (Yen) so we hopped in and he stepped on it. Basically, we needed to get through customs on either side of the border and try and make it to the train station on the Chinese side in time to get a train ticket back to Beijing. We had lots of competition for this goal, so there was a rush. We went to the Mongolian exit authority, jumped out the jeep with our things, ran through processing, back on the jeep and through a number of similar forms and lines, in and out of the jeep until we reached the train station on the Chinese side of the border in a town called Erling. We jumped through some hoops to change our Mongolian money (which is really hard, if not impossible to convert anywhere else). At the station it turned out there were no more trains out to Beijing until the next day, so we went over to the long distance bus station. Thanks as usual to Mike's language skills, we were able to purchase overnight sleeper bus tickets to Beijing. We grabbed some food, then hopped on a bus full of beds that was a lot nicer than the one we took with Kim Jong's brother from Anqing to Beijing. We had saved a lot of headache coming back by not having to wait for the insanely slow process of changing train wheels at the border, and not having to deal with the horrible staff on the train, but we were in for a new fun adventure on this bus. Every time we crossed from one province to another, as well as several other checkpoints and stops, the bus was boarded, IDs were checked, everyone given a once over and then we'd start moving again. This happened all night, so just as you'd fall asleep, the bus would stop and the conducter and some security people boarding the bus would have a flashlight, all the bus lights would come on and people would start demanding your ID. After they were done checking the IDs (often off the bus), the conductor would spend another 20 minutes yelling out people's names to return their IDs. So, we didn't get much sleep, much as we tried. We talked to a Mongolian man who was a fashion designer, working in western style leather clothes in Beijing. Many people on that bus went through this process on a regular basis, as they were Mongolians traveling from Ulanbataar to Beijing on regular business. As annoying as not being able to sleep was, the ride was much less painful than the train going from Ulanbataar from Beijing, thanks to the absence of "Pork Rind Face" and the rest of the wonderful train staff.