Burhanpur

Burhanpur is an interesting city of historical importance. Tourism there is being developed as sites are being renovated. It was here that Mumtaz Mahal, wife of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan died and was buried for six months. The Taj Mahal was to be built here instead of Agra, but due to a number of factors ended up there. Even today you can see Mumtaz Mahal's hamam (bath) and living area. It is heavily decayed, but being repaired. Beside this I saw a Gurdwara where the final human Guru of Sikhism; Guru Gobind Singh hand signed a Guru Granth Sahib (holy book and living final Guru of the Sikhs). The Granth Sahib there is much like the ornamented Qurans of Islamic tradition and is very beautiful.Perhaps the most beautiful site I saw there was the Dargah-e-Hakimi of the Bora community. I do not know a lot about it, but it houses the tombs of some very important community members. It is like a gorgeous compound with schools, gardens and beautiful architecture. In one sense, it is very much like that utopian sort of futuristic society with old culture traditional looks that they show in science fiction movies. Where the people look happy and well dressed in traditional clothes and live a cultured and meaningful existence. It had that look and though I don't know much more than that about it, like any truly great holy place, it had a real sense of peace and beauty.There was also a beautiful mosque with Sanskrit, Arabic and Urdu writing in it. It had lotus designs similar to a Jain mandir, like the mosque I saw in Ahmedabad. There were also beautiful Jain temples and a fort out in Asirgarh, outside the town, from the times of the Mahabharat. It had a mosque and mandir in it built, I believe by Shah Jahan and a Christian cemetary built by the British among other things.We met some very friendly people walking around in the fort who taught us more about it. We went down to a beautiful mandir at the base of the mountain afterwards where the holy men were ironically glued to the cricket match on tv. I think it was Sri Lanka vs. India. There was something surreal about that little tv right there by the murtis (idols).After taking in some sites in Burhanpur and eating many a delicious meal at Heena's restaurant in the hotel across from the bus station, we head off by train to Delhi.